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Desizing Test

Desizing Test/Starch indicator

Starch is often used in fabric weaving to avoid breaking of the thread. It increases the strength of thread and also decreases the friction during weaving. This starch is must to remove before any kind of dyeing or chemical washing of garment. A number of desizing process (removal of starch /size)  are in practice in industry.

Starch forms a very dark blue-black compound with iodine. The indicator is not disturbed by the presence of iodide (I^-). Starch forms an un-stable complex (blue colored) in low concentrations of Iodine. However, this complex is highly stable in high concentrations of Iodine solution (It can’t be decolorized and it spoils the reaction medium). Starch indicator solutions may be synthesized in the laboratory. Alternatively, commercially available preparations are also available.

When a garment is desized, then to check the extent to which starch is removed, a few drops of starch indicator are dropped on the garment. If it changes its color to blue-black, that indicates that desizing process is incomplete and starch is still present there.

Starch

Starch or Amylum (C₆H₁₀O₅)_n) is a polysaccharide carbohydrate consisting of a huge number of glucose units joined with one another by glycosidic bonds. Starch is formed by all green plants as an energy store and is a main food source for humans.

Pure starch is a white, tasteless and odorless residue that is insoluble in cold water or alcohol. It is made up by two types of molecules: the linear and helical amylose and the branched amylopectin. Depending on the source plant, starch generally contains 20 to 25 percent amylose and 75 to 80 percent amylopectin.Glycogen, the glucose stockpile of animals, is a more branched form of amylopectin.

The word “starch” is derivative from Middle English sterchen, meaning to harden, which is appropriate since starch can be used as a thickening or glueing negotiator when dissolved in water and heated, giving wheatpaste.

In Textile it is used to decrease breaking of yarns during weaving, the warp yarns are sized. Starch is one of the main agents utilize for cotton sizing. Starch also is used as printing thickener.

Iodine solution is used to test for starch; a blue color points to the existence of starch. The details of this reaction are not yet completely known, but it is thought that the iodine (I₃^− and I₅^− ions) fits inside the twirl of amylose, the charge transfers between the iodine and the starch, and the energy plane spacing’s in the resulting complex match to the absorption spectrum in the visible light region. The strength of the resultant blue color depends on the amount of amylose present.

Starch indicator solution containing of water, starch and iodine is regularly used in redox titrations: in the existence of an oxidizing agent the solution turns blue, in the presence of reducing agent the blue color vanish because triiodide (I₃^−) ions break up into three iodide ions, dis-assembling the starch-iodine complex. A 0.3% w/w solution is the typical concentration for a starch indicator. It is made by accumulation 4 grams of soluble starch to 1 litre of heated water; the solution is cooled prior to use keep in mind that starch-iodine compound becomes unstable at temperatures above 35 °C).

Cotton

Cotton is the most common textile fiber. Almost three quarter of our textile fabrics are made from cotton. Cotton is also blended with other natural as well as man made fibers to develop a variety of Textiles. At present, almost sixty countries of the world are producing cotton. Cotton fabrics were made by the ancient Egyptians and by the earliest of Chinese civilizations using different techniques. Samples of cotton fabrics have been found in Indian tombs dating back to year 3000 B.C. There is no doubt about the fact that spinning and weaving of cotton was started by Indians. Later, this technique was adopted by European countries. It is natural cellulosic fiber. It has hairy growth on the seeds of plant named Genus Gossipium which is cultivated in tropical areas.

a)  Cotton Crop:

The cotton is an annual crop. It is sown in March to April and the crop is ready to be picked in September to October.

b)  Formation of Fiber:

Cotton seed is sown in spring. After two to three months, many creamy white flowers appear, which turn pink towards the end of the first day. On the third day, the flower dies to leave a small green seed pot or ball. After a few days, fibers start growing around the cotton seed. The growth of cotton fibers carries on throughout the ball ripening period. Each cotton seed may produce as many as twenty thousand fibers on its surface and a single ball contains about 150,000 fibers or more. The ball itself is called fruit.

c)  Fiber Growth:

For the first six days, the growth of young cotton fiber is comparatively slow. For the next 15 days, it is much more rapid. Then, for the next three days, it grows more slowly until the length wise growth come to sudden stop. During the period of rapid growth, the cotton fiber is in state of a thick walled tube of cellulose with one end attached to the seed. After the stoppage of length wise growth , the cell opens and the finer is ready to be picked in a few days.

d) Picking of Cotton:

Cotton picking is carried out by hands during the autumn. As the balls on the plant do not mature all at the same time, field has to be picked, over several times. Mechanical picking has also been developed but it is not in universal use.

Many varieties of cotton plant are grown commercially in different areas of the world, under a wide range of growing conditions. As a result, there are many different grades and qualities of cotton which vary widely in their properties and characteristics.

The assessment of cotton is a difficult job, requiring great experience and skill. In general, quality is linked directly to the fiber length. Cotton is specified into following categories with respect to its fiber length.   Â

Varieties of Cotton

Sr. #.	Fiber Length in inch	Quality	Country
1	1 to 2.5	Fine Quality	Egypt, USA
2	0.5 to 1.30	Medium Quality	USA, Peru
3	0.4 to 1	Coarse Quality	Pakistan, China, India

Properties:

i. Texture:

                  It is a comfortable fiber with soft hand.

ii. Burning Properties:

                  It burns with papery smell without forming beads. Scorching begins above 210⁰C.

iii. Effect of acids and alkalis:

                  It is severely attacked by acids. Dilute alkalis have no effect on it. Conc. Alkalis reduce its strength.

iv. Solubility:

                  It dissolves in 80% Sulphuric acid cold.

v. Moisture Regain:

                  8.5 %

vi. Absorbency:

                   It has good absorbency.

vii. Dyeability:

                   It can be dyed and printed with a variety of dyes and has good fastness properties.

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Some Information

1. What is clothing?

Ans. Clothing is one of the three basic needs of human being. Clothing is used for covering human body or other bodies to fulfill or satisfy the requirements of those bodies with the object of protection, decoration and identification.

2. Why woolen garments used in cooler climate?

Ans. The general configuration of wool fibre is helical and this configuration works as a wall for passing of cold or warm.

3. What is design or sketch?

Ans. In clothing industry design means determining the shape and cutting patterns of garments according to it.

4. What id basic block or block pattern?

Ans. Block patterns are the main or basic patterns which are constructed with definite and standard body measurement, but they do not possess any style or extra attractiveness or any type of allowances.

5. What is a pattern?

Ans. It is the model of all components of garments on a hard paper board.

6. Why pattern is produced?

Ans.   (I) To make a set of templates of different components of garments.

           (II) To make a large amount of production at a time.

          (III) To minimize wastage and cost of  garments.

7. what is working pattern or production pattern?

Ans. These are made on the basic of block pattern or basic block. Each block pattern is drawn or sketched on the hard paper board with the help of pencil. Then the following allowances and positions are added-

(I) sewing allowance

(II) Trimming allowance

(III) CBL

(IV)CFL

(V) Button attaching position

(VI) Button holing position

(VII) Plate etc.

8. What is invoice?

Ans. It is one kind of documents which contains the information’s about selling items. Normally there are two types of invoice-

  (I) Proforma invoice- preliminary, (II) Commercial invoice-finally.

9. Seam line/attaching point is marked by U or V notch? (yes/no)

Ans. Yes

10. How grain line is indicated/mentioned in patterns?

Ans. By arrow mark.

11. What is grain line?

Ans. It is the line, which is marked on the patterns of a garment and the line indicates the warp yarn, as a result, when the pattern is placed in the marking paper then the Grain line follow the warp yarn of fabric.

12. Grain line of pattern must be parallel of the fabric? (yes/no)

Ans. Yes

13. Define category?

Ans. In garments export and import business a definite type of garments is specified by a definite number which is called category.

14. What is approved sample?

Ans. The sample which is approved by the buyer is called approved sample.

15. What is counter sample?

Ans. The manufacturers produce several numbers of samples following the approved sample which is known as counter samples. They facility the bulk production or hung on production floor.

16. What do you mean by allowance?

Ans. In case of garments making some additional measurements are added with standard body measurement which is termed as allowances. This allowances is 1cm or 1inch.there are two types of allowance-(I) Trimming allowance. (II) Sewing allowances.

17. What is back taking?

Ans. During sewing we need to start or end it prior to 1cm or after 1cm respectively to secure the sewing end. This is termed as back tacking.

18. What is bar tacking?

Ans. We continue sewing for several times within a vary short distance to increase the load or strength of that particular portion which is termed as bar taking.e.g- edge of pocket, belt loop, Fly piece etc.

19. What is blind stitch?

Ans. A particular type of stitch which is not visible from the face side of the garments.

20. What do you mean by C.B.L and C.F.L?

Ans.  C.B.L= center back line, C.F.L= center front line

21. What are disposable garments?

Ans. The garments which are used for one time only called disposable garments. e.g. Medical garments.

22. What do you mean by Flap?

Ans. It’s the part of pocket which covers the pocket opening.

23. What is interlining?

Ans. A layer of fabric which is used between two layer of fabric to give the particular  area desired shape and to enhance the strength of that particular position which is called interlining. e.g. collar, cuff.

24.What are the types of interlining?

Ans. (I) sewable interlining,(II) fusible interlining.

25. What do you mean by lining?

Ans. A layer of fabric which is used in the inner side of garments to increase the comfortability of the garments which is called lining.e.g. suits, coats, ladies and babies wear.

26. What do you mean by FDI?

Ans. FDI= Foreign direct investment. These types of investment directly come from foreign country.

27. What is overlocking or neatening?

Ans. The sewing process of cutting edge of the fabric. So that the slack yarn cannot be opened.

28. What is seaming?

Ans. The attaching procedure of different components of garments.

29. What is stitch?

Ans. The unit of sewing or seam.

30. What is seam?

Ans. The line of sewing of one or more than one layers of fabric/the line of joining of fabric.

31. What do you mean by trimmings or accessories?

Ans. Beside fabric the components which are needed to make a complete garments termed as trimmings. e.g. Button, sewing thread, lining, interning etc.

32. What is ticket number?

Ans. It indicates the coarseness or fineness of a sewing thread.

33. What is L/C?

Ans. L/C means letter of credit. It is one kind of agreement between buyer and seller.

34. What is pattern grading?

Ans. Grading means the stepwise increase or decrease of a master pattern piece to create large or small size. Grading alters the overall size of a design but not its general shape and appearance. If buyer requires different sizes, we would have to grade the dimension. It may be S.L, X.L and XXL.

35. What are the method of grading?

Ans. Grading can be apply two method –(I) manual method,(II) computerized method.

36. Marker as a guideline for cutting?(yes/no)   

 Ans. Yes.

37. What is marker?

Ans. Marker is a thin paper which contain all necessary pattern pieces for all sized for a particular style of garments. it’s a representation or drawing of the arrangement of the identified materials.

38. Fabric width and length must be higher than the marker width and length? (yes/no)

Ans. Yes.

39. Grain line should be parallel to the warp direction in a woven fabric or the Wales in a knitted fabric? (true/false)

Ans. True

40. What is formula of marker efficiency?

Ans. Marker efficiency= area of pattern pieces in a marker/total area of marker × 100%

41. The less the fabric wastage, the higher the marker efficiency?(true/false)

Ans. True.

42. The more the marker length, the higher the marker efficiency? (True/false)

Ans. True.

43. What do you mean by garments size?

Ans. The size of garments can be expressed by two methods-

(I)                Alphabetical expression e.g. S,M,L,XL,XXL

(II)             Numerical expression e.g. 38,39,40,41,42(in cm or in inch)

44. Write down the feature of T-shirt?

Ans.  (I) casual tops, (II) Narrow neck line, (III) Usually short sleeve, (IV) No collar

45. Write down the feature of polo shirt?

Ans. (I) Tops, (II) short/long sleeve,(III) collar,(IV) short button placket or neck opening.

46. How can you divide all garments?

Ans. All types of garments can be divided mainly two groups –(I) Tops part, (II) Bottom part.

47. Write down the feature of pull oven / sweater?

Ans. (I) warm shirt,(II) long sleeve, (III) waist band, (IV) pull on over head.

48. Write down the feature of Tank-loop?

Ans. (I) sleeve less pullover, (II) used over a shirt (III) warm shirt (IV) waist band, (V) pull on over head.

49. Write down the feature of cardigan?

Ans. (I) Open front, (II) Fastened with a zip or button, (III) waist band.

50. What do you mean by CAD?

Ans. CAD means computer aided design: In apparel industry CAD systems are mainly used for garments design, pattern preparation, pattern grading and marker marking.

51. What do you mean by CAM?

Ans. CAM means computer aided manufacturing. It includes computerized sewing machines, fabric spreading machines, cutting systems.

52. Write some important meaning?

Ans. CM= Cost of making

         CMT= Cost of making with trimmings

         FOB= Freight on boat

         C & F= Cost and freight

         CIF= cost, insurance and freight

        L/C= letter of credit

53. What is cloth spreading/laying?

Ans. To spread cloth as determined by needed quantity as per marking/ the smooth laying out of fabric in superimposed layer of specified length.

54. What do you mean by fabric cutting?

Ans. To cut the cloth according to marker of patterns for sewing.

55. What are the methods of fabric cutting?

Ans.  (A) Manual method

-          Scissor

-           Round knife

-          Band knife

-          Straight knife

-          Die cutting

-          Notcher            &        -Drill

(B) Computerized method

         - Straight knife cutting

         - Water jet cutting

         -  Leaser beam cutting

         - Plasma torch cutting

56. What do you know about fusible interlining?

Ans. The interlining which is attaching to the garments component by the application of temperature and pressure is called fusible interlining

57. How fusible interlining is manufactured?

Ans. By using a resin coating of thermoplastic materials on a piece of fabric.

58. For symmetrical fabric marker efficiency is high and less efficiency for asymmetrical fabric?  (True/false)

Ans. True.

59. The more large patterns and less small patterns reduce marker efficiency? (True/false)

Ans. True.

60. For more small patterns, marker efficiency will be increased? (True/false)

Ans. True.

61. What do you know about symmetrical fabric?

Ans. Fabric which can retain the same appearance in case of turning in 180° angle called symmetrical fabric. e.g. solid dyed fabric.

62. What do you know about the asymmetrical fabric?

Ans. Asymmetrical fabric is those which can not retain the same appearance while turning in 180° angle. E.g. pile fabric, brushed fabric etc.

63. What are the methods of marker making?

Ans. (I) manual, (II) computerized.

64. What are the wastage of marker?

Ans. (I) inside wastage

(II) Outside wastage

                  -Ends of ply losses (2-4) inch

                  -Loss of fabric ends

                  -Selvedge losses

                  -Purchase losses

65. What is sample?

Ans. The garment which is needed for bulk production is called sample garment.

66. What is sewing?

Ans. The process of joining of fabric by the use of needle and sewing thread is called sewing.

67. What are the basic components of sewing?

Ans. 

ü  Needle

ü  Throat plate

ü  Pressure foot

ü  Feed dogs

ü  Sewing thread and fabric.

68. Write some name of sewing defects?

Ans.

ü  Seam pucker

ü  Broken or open stitch

ü  Staggered stitch

ü  Slipped or skipped stitch

ü  Vertical stitch density.

69. What do you mean by seam puckering?

Ans. Stitching with unwanted gathering.

70.  What do you mean by pressing and Finishing?

Ans. The process by which the unwanted crease and winkles are removed from the garments and the outlook of the garments is improved as well.

71. Which iron is used for industrial purposes?

Ans. Steam irons.

72. What do you mean by label?

Ans. Label is an attached component of garment on which important information regarding the garment are written or printed.

73. What do you mean by WWSC and RSWD?

Ans.  WWSC = wash with similar color

           RSWD = Re shape whilst damp.

74. Which inspection system widely used in garment industry?

Ans. 4-points system.

75. What do you mean by TAP and AQL?

Ans.  TAP = Total acceptable product in a lot

          AQL = Acceptable quality limit.

76. What do you mean by core spun thread/yarn?

Ans. This thread /yarn has continuous filament polyester wrapped in cotton fibres.

77. What do you mean by OE & CE zipper?

Ans.   OE zipper = open end zipper - use in jacket

           CE zipper = closed end zipper - use in baggage.

78. How many types of accessories?

 Ans. Two types

(i)                 Visible accessories e.g. button, sewing thread etc

(ii)Invisible accessories e.g. interlining                                                                                                                                   

79. What do you know about synthetic thread/yarn?

Ans. This is large group of thread/yarn made mainly from nylon, polyester, rayon and polyamide filaments or fibres.

80. What do you know about lings?

Ans. Lings is the measuring unit of button diameter. To  measure the outer diameter of button we use lings number.

      1 ling = 1/40 inch = 0.025 inch = 0.636 mm

81. How many types of label?

Ans. There are mainly three types of label

(I)                Main label, (II) size label, (III) care label.

The all other of label are called sub label.

82. What do you know about motif?

Ans. The special component which is attached outside of the garment for decorative purpose called motif. e.g. company name, trade mark or  other symbols can be written on the motif.

83. What do you know about dart and pleat ?

Ans. (I) dart = part of cloth is folded and stitched to slenderize it

       (II) A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and      securing it in place or the pleat shows the form being folded and stitched.

84. How many types of woven fabric?

Ans. Three types – (I) yarn dyed (II) solid dyed(s/d) (III) Denim

85. Desizing is mandatory or obvious before washing (True/False)        Ans. True.

86. Why hot ash is necessary?

Ans. To clean the desize chemicals (introduction to cold water re-solidify the fat and wax)

87. Why M:L is important?

Ans. Without m:l we can not determine the required amount of dyes, chemicals and water during dyeing, washing and other wet processing. That’s why m:l is important.

88. What is the mechanism of producing fading effect in garments manufacturing?

Ans. Three process of fading mechanism –

(I)                         Chemical action.

(II)             Mechanical action

(III)          Biological action.

89. How many types of mechanical abrasion in garments washing?

Ans. Three types –

            (I) Garment to garment.

           (II) Garment to m/c

           (III) Garment to solid material (e.g. stone)

90. How many types of chemical action in garment washing?

Ans. Three types-

(I)                Regular(Bleach wash)

(II)             Irregular(Acid wash)

(III)          Local(p.p.spray, p.p.sponge)

91.  What is the factor depends on action of washing?

Ans.

(I)                Time

(II)             Temperature

(III)          Mechanical abrasion

(IV)          Chemical action

92. What do you mean by costing and pricing/?

Ans. Costing = Total consumption of garments without profit

         Pricing = costing with profit.

93. What do you know about back to back L/C opening?

Ans. For purchasing fabric and accessories against main L/C.

94. What is lead time in garments?

Ans. Time start from L/C opening or order receive to garments delivery is called lead time.

  Lead time — local market = 45 days

                          Foreign market = 90-120 days

95. What is stock lot?

Ans. When goods are made for buyer but not possible to shipping as a result goods are stain at store. This goods are called stock lot .

96. How many parts of jacket?

Ans. Three parts

           (I)  Upper part is called shell

   (II)  Inner part is called lining

(III) Middle part is called interlining.

97. Write down the other commercial name of interlining?

Ans. Padding / wedding/ Bedding / polyfil.

98. What types of garments are made from feather?

Ans. Overcoats,jackets,pillow,blanket etc.

99. What types of feather are used for making garments?

Ans. Duck chest feathers.

100. What do you mean by quality?

Ans. Quality is the difference between the products or It is the goodness or badness in a product or the feather of a product which satisfy customers or end users.

101. If 40  or more than 40 defects are present in 100 square yards then the fabric is considered as rejected in four point system (True/false)?

Ans. True.

102. When established garments industry in Bangladesh?

Ans. In 1960, REAZ garments.

103. What do you mean by garments final inspection?

Ans. Garments final inspection is to take decision whether the lot will be passed for shipment or it will be rejected.

104. What are the different types of sampling inspection of garments?

Ans. (I) without inspection, (II) 100% inspection, (III) spot inspection, (IV) Arbitary inspection, (V) Acceptance inspection.

105. Write down the section of shirt making?

Ans. (I) Collar section, (II) Cuff section, (III) Body section.

106. What do you mean by PD, WR, WP, and TC?

Ans. PD= Plain dyed, WR= Water repellent, WP= Water proof, TC= Tetron & cotton, SD= solid dyed, YD= Yarn dyed.

107. What is pattern?

Ans. The pieces of thick paper are required in the form necessary to make or style of garments is called pattern.

108. What do you mean by marking?

Ans. Drawing as patterns on the as per style.

109. What is consumption?

Ans. Needed quantity of cloth as per dz according to marker.

110. What do you mean by assortment?

Ans. To determine the quantity of garments according to size and colour.

111. What types of style of collar?

Ans. (I) One piece (Banded) collar, (II) two piece (banded) collar, (III) Sport open (no bended) collar.

112. How many types of cuff according to style?

Ans. Four types — (I) Notched, (II) Squared, (III) Rounded, (IV) Pointed.

113. How many types of cuff according to construction?

Ans. Two types— (I) one piece cuff (The cuff which includes both front & back in one piece of cloth), (II)   Two piece cuff (two piece of cloth).

114. Write down the types of front of a shirt?

Ans. (I) Plain, (II) Top center, (III) French front.

115. How many types of sleeve?

Ans. (I) Long genbol, (II)Sleeve placket, (III) Hemmed sleeve.

116. How many types of yoke ?

Ans. (I) one piece plain yoke (yoke and back are one piece of cloth),

        (II) Two piece single yoke (yoke is separated from the back but yoke is one piece)

       (III) Two piece double yoke (yoke is separated from the back but yoke are two piece of      yokes)

117. How many types of pocket style?

Ans. (I) plain, (II) Hexagon, (III) Rounded, (IV) squared, (V) Hemmed.

118. How many types of bottom style of a shirt?

Ans. (I) Straight bottom, (II) Tailed bottom.

119. What are the styles or types of  packing and folding of shirt?

Ans.        (I) Stand up (collar is folded to remain at 90° angle from the floor level)

               (II) Semi stand up (collar is folded to remain at 45° angle from the floor level)

               (III)  Flat pack (collar is laid to the floor level at 0° angle)

(IV) Hanger pack (collar is folded for a hanger).

120. What are the styles of shirt?

Ans. (I) Basic/regular, (II) Casual/Irregular, (III) Sport shirt, (IV) Blouse

121. What do you mean by numbering in garments?

Ans. This process is to put a number on the each part of a garment after cutting. So that the same numbers of each part might be combined at the time of sewing.

122. What is sorting?

Ans. This process is to sort by size and color after cutting.

123. Write down the attention point when marking

      (I) Jumping & bias should not occur

     (II) Position marking

    (III) Must fit the end of the net (one side) line

    (IV) Must check the quantity whether all the parts are marked as directed.

124. When dies cutting is used?

Ans. For interlining cutting

125. What is inlay/sewing allowance?

Ans. The fabric which is kept excess of the seam line at the time of sewing is called inlay/sewing allowance.

126. Inlay is sewing allowance but sewing allowance is not inlay? (Yes/No)       Ans. Yes.

127. What do you mean by Gusset (Front facing)?

Ans. The part which is folded into the inside of the front. This is two types— (I) Upper front gusset, (II) Lower front gusset.

128. What do you know about inlay (sewing allowance)?

Ans. The part which is folded into the inside during sewing.

129. What is back stitching?

Ans. It is stitching to back after finishing the stitch length; it is normally 3-5 stitches.

130. What is error part?

Ans. When left and right are attached being interchanged with each other or both right or left are attached in case of cuffs and sleeves is called error part.

131. Stitching and sewing, which is visible and invisible?

        Stitching—visible

        Sewing—invisible

132. What is double stitching?

Ans. The stitching which has two lines keeping constant distance is called double stitching.

133. What do you know about slip out?

Ans. When the interlocking stitching stitches do not lock with each other along the sewing line then it is called slip out.

134. What do you mean by floating?

Ans. few stitches, which are not passed through the cloth of proper interval during sewing is known as floating.

135. Write down the classification of assortment/packing?

Ans. (I) Solid size, solid color, (II) Solid size, assort color, (III) Assort size, solid color, (IV) Assort size, assort color.

136. What do you mean by Y-shirt?

Ans. Basic shirt/regular shirt/Dress shirt.

137. What do you mean by casual/irregular shirt?

Ans. various types of style.

138. What do you mean by sport shirt?

Ans. The shirt which is sporty and needs no neck tie.

139.  What are the function of clothing?

Ans. 1. Protection        2. Decoration                    3. Identification  

140. What is the requirement of clothing?

Ans. 1. Suitability , 2. Appearance,  3. Comfort,4. Aftercare , 5. stability    

141. How can we difference between a ladies shirt and a Gents shirt?

Ans. Buttons are on the opposite side to that of gents shirt,

 i.e., Ladies shirt: Upper front part is right side.

       Gents shirt: Upper front part is left side.

→   Ladies pant: Fly piece is right side.

        Gents pant: fly piece is left side.

142. What is E-Textiles?

Ans.  E-textile also known as electronic textiles are fabrics that enable computing, digital components and electronics to be embedded in them.

The emphasis of e-textile will be on creating a women textile with embedded copper which will provide the usual wear comfort and at the same time it will have a circuit with a few chips sunning at few megahertz.

Example: In the field of medical prevention and rehabilitation it becomes highly necessary to continuously monitor the patient’s health condition by keeping sensing devices close to the body and e-textile can successfully accomplish senior functionality.

143. What is the reason for clothing?

Ans:  (a) Modesty                              (b) Protection against adverse climate conditions

            (c) Adornment                          (d) Identification

             (e) Aristocratic reason

144. Size of Human?

Ans. 1. Men-(i). Short- 5’ 3” to 5’ 7”                (ii). Regular- 5’8” to 6’

            (iii). Tall- above 6’

         2.  Women-(i). Short 4’11” to 5’3”        (ii). 5’4” to 5’7”                      

                           (iii). Tall above 5’7”

145. What is Production pattern/Garments pattern?

Ans. When necessary allowances are added to the working patterns, then they are called production pattern.

146.What is Working pattern?

Ans. The patterns which are made with net dimension of a particular style called working patterns.

147. What methods are used to make Block patterns?

Ans.  i. Flat method                 ii. Modeling method

148. What are the methods of pattern grading?

Ans. (i).Manual grading,            (ii). Computer aided grading.

149. What is half part grading?

Ans. If the increasing or decreasing is done in every sides of a pattern, then it is called half part grading.

150. What is ¼th part grading?

Ans. If the increasing or decreasing is done in either lengthwise or widthwise or in any two sides of a pattern then it is called ¼th part grading.

151. What is C.B.L (Center back line)?

Ans. Middle point of back neck up to the bottom end in the back part of a shirt.

152. What is C.F.L (Center front line)?

Ans. Line from the top button to the bottom end in the face side of a shirt.

153. What is collar stand or collar band?

Ans.  It’s the part of a collar in which collar stands in upward direction.

Collar stands in upward direction.

154. What is cuff?

Ans.  It is the end point of sleeve of a shirt laying around the wrist.

155. What is Ticket number?

Ans.  It indicates the coarseness or fineness of a sewing thread. e.g. 3/60, 2/80 etc.

156. What is Hemming?

Ans. The process of sewing of an edge or border on a piece of cloth, especially a finished edge, as for a garment or curtain, made by folding an edge under and stitching it down. e.g. Bottom edge of a shirt.

157. What is lead-time?

Ans. The time interval between the initiation and the completion of a production process.

158. How design can be developed?

Ans.

1. Sketching (Two dimension method): Usually developed on paper
2. Modeling (Three dimension method): Usually developed dummy or live model
3. Computer aided design (CAD): Usually developed using design related software.

159. T-shirt Feature.

Ans.  i. Refers as casual

          ii. Garments with narrow neckline,                                                     

        iii. Garments with short or long sleeves,

         iv. No collar/Cuff, and

          v. Usually made of cotton.

160. Polo-shirt feature.

C  Used to cover the upper body part (Tops),

C  Garments with short/long sleeves,

C  Garments with collar and cuffs,

C  Short button placket or short chest opening,  and

C  Made of either 100% cotton or CVC or PC.  

161. Tank Top feature.

C  It is a sleeveless pull over,

C  It is used over a shirt,

C  Used as warm shirt,

C  Garments with waist band, and

C  It is put on over head.

162. Pull over/Sweater feature.

C  Used as warm shirts,

C  Garments with long sleeves,

C  Garments with waist band, and

C  Put on over head.

163. Cardigan feature.

C  Open front and fastened with a zipper or button,

C  Garments with waist band,

C  Used as warm shirts, and

C  Usually made of wool/acrylic.

164. Shirt feature.

C  Upper-body garment with a collar, cuffs and pocket,

C  A full vertical opening and fastened with buttons,

C  With short or long sleeves, and

C  Men’s shirt having lower front part at right hand side and for women it is exactly opposite.

165. Sportswear feature.

C Auto motorcycle racing wear

C  Bike wear

C  Golf apparel

C  Ski wear (winter garments)

C  Sports jersey and track tops

C  Sports shorts and trousers

C  Swim wear and beach wear

C  Training and jogging wear

166. What is the function of CAD in apparel industries?

1. Garments design.
2. Pattern design & pattern preparation.
3. Pattern grading
4. Marker making

167. What is the function of CAM in apparel industries?

Ans. 1. Fabric spreading.                    2. Cutting systems.

         3. Mover systems.                      4. Sewing systems.          

168. What is grading?

 Ans.  Grading means the stepwise increase or decrease of a master pattern piece to create large or small size. Grading alters the overall size of a design but not it̕s general shape & appearance.

169. What is the main objective of marker?

Ans.                    i. To minimize the fabric wastage

                          ii. To improve the quality of garments.

170. What are the main product are produced in garments Industry in Bangladesh?

Ans. Woven shirt, T-shirt, trouser, jacket, jogging shuts, sweaters, jersey etc.

171.  How much currency earn from garments sector in Bangladesh every year?

Ans. Above 75%.

172. What is quota?

Ans. Kind of agreement between the exporter country where importer country mention a specific number of garments.

173. When established garments industry in Bangladesh?

Ans. In 1960, ”REAZ” garments.

174. What is the difference between the sewing and stitching?

Ans. Sewing=Invisible

         Stitching=Visible

175. What is the difference between the yarn and thread?

Ans. Yarn= (i) Yarn is used for producing fabrics (Knit & Woven).

(ii)               Normally it is single ply.

Thread= (i) Thread is used for garments sewing.

(iii)             It is normally two or three or four plies.

176. What measurement unit used in America and Europe.

Ans. America use=Inch

       Europe use=Centimeter (cm).

177. What are the sections of sewing used for making a shirt?

Ans. There are three sections- 1. Collar section

                                                      2. Cuff section

                                                      3. Body section

178. What type of woven fabric?

Ans. 1. Yarn dyed 2. Solid dyed 3. Denim.

179. What is Line Balancing?

Ans. Line Balancing is the allocation of sewing machines according to style and design of garment. It depends on, what type of garments we have to produce.

180. What is Compliance?

Ans. Compliance means comply something’s that is yield to the wishes another. The main aim of compliance is to ensuring the all labour rights and facilities according to the Buyer code of conduct.

181. What are the different types of order?

Ans.    

1. FOB (Free on boat) order                                      

            2. FOA (Free on air) order                 

            3. C & F (Cost and freight) order                   

            4. CIF (Cost, insurance and freight) order                 

            5. CIFC (Cost, insurance, freight and commission) order

            6. CMT (Cutting, making and trimmings) order

            7. CM (Cost of making) order

            8. TT (Telephonic transfer) order

            9. Subcontract order

            10. Exchange order.

182. What do you mean by FOB (Free on boat) order?

Ans. This is the export term of delivery and price quotation. The sellers send the goods for export and delivers them on boat (the ship). The risk is passed from seller to buyer when the goods are loaded in the ship at the port of departure. The buyer payes the freight charges. The seller does not include the freight charge with his costing.

183. What do you mean by FOA (Free on air) order?

Ans. The seller delivers the goods to the air carrier at the air port of departure. The buyer bears the risk from that moment and payes the air transport cost. The seller bears the cost of materials and making, does not include air freight.

184. What do you mean by C & F (Cost and freight) order?

Ans. The sellers send the goods for export, payes the freight charge and deliver them on boat (the ship). The risk is passes to the buyer when the goods are left the port of departure.

185. What do you mean by CIF (Cost, insurance and freight) order?

Ans. This is identical to the C&F term except that in addition, the seller ensures (pay the insurance bill) the goods against loss and damage at his own cost.

186. What do you mean by CIFC (Cost, insurance, freight and commission) order?

Ans. At this type of order, the seller includes the cost of insurance, freight and commission for local buying house.

187. What do you mean by CMT (Cutting, making and trimmings) order?

Ans. In this case, the buyer fixes the rate of CMT with the factory. So the seller does not add the price of fabric with his costing, but at L/C buyer gives all money to the factory. The factory collects only CMT money from the bank. Balance money return to the fabric supplier. This ordering system is following the tailoring shop.

188. What do you mean by CM (Cost of making) order?

Ans. In this case, the buyer fixes the rate of CM only with the factory. So the seller does not add the price of fabric and trimmings with his costing, but at L/C buyer gives all money to the factory. The factory collects only CM money from the bank. Balance money return to the fabric and accessories supplier.

189. What do you mean by TT (Telephonic transfer) order?

Ans. When order quantity is very small and need urgent delivery, in that case, buyer gives purchase contract instead of L/C and sends money to seller bank by TT. After getting money, the seller sends the goods to buyer.

190. What do you mean by Subcontract order?

Ans. It is indirect order, the order is received by another factory and when it is not possible for that factory to complete the production within the time, in that case they share the order with other factory by giving subcontract. The subcontract factory only gets the CM charge by local money from the order taker.

191. What do you mean by Exchange order?

Ans. In this case, the buyer did not pay any money against buying garments from Bangladesh. Instead of money, they are giving another goods or products, which is surplus in their country but we need it very much. This type of business is very rare. They use L/C for doing this type of business.

192. What do you mean by Proforma invoice?

Ans. Proforma invoice is temporary commercial invoice, which is send by exporter to importer. It helps to open a letter of credit (L/C) in favor of exporter by importer. It helps the foreign buyer to obtain an import license if it is necessary.

193. What do you mean by commercial invoice?

Ans. Commercial invoice is the final invoice and basic document. It contain all the details like name & address of importer and exporter, description of goods, quantity, rate, value of goods, details of shipment.

194. What do you mean by letter of credit (L/C)?

Ans. It is important document, which is used for doing the business, where Bank is responsible for payment in favor of sellers. It is a means/instrument for opening a credit (L/C) in favor of exporter by importer to make payment on fulfillment of conditions within given time.

Assortment

195. Give example of Assort size, Assort color for 12 pieces garments?

Ans.	Red	Yellow	Blue
Small	1	2	1	=4
Medium	1	2	1	=4
Large	1	2	1	=4
	=3	=6	=3	=12 pce

196. Give example of Assort size, Solid color for 12 pieces garments?

Ans.	Small	Medium	Large
Red	4	4	4	=12 pcs

                  

197. Give example of Solid size, Assort color for 12 pieces garments?

Ans.	Red	Yellow	Blue
Small	4	4	4	=12 pcs

198. Give example of Solid size, Solid color for 12 pieces garments?

Ans.	Red
Small	12 pcs

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 199. What is Tag gun?

Ans. It is used for attaching the Hang tag, Price ticket etc.

200. What do you mean by Bill of Exchange?

Ans. A Bill of Exchange is a legal document and order in writing, requesting the drawee (Factory) to pay within the specified time. The drawer (supplier), drawee and payee (Bank) are involved in this transaction. The Bill of Exchange also known as draft, can be right draft or wsanee draft.

201. What do you mean by Bill of Landing?

Ans. Bill of Landing is a document issued by the shipping company acknowledging that the goods have been shipped on board and undertaking that the goods as received will be delivered to the consignee (Buyer).

When the export contract is CIF, then the exporter makes payment of the freight and gets “freight paid” Bill of Landing. On the other hand, if the contract is FOB, the freight has to be paid by the importer. In that case, the shipping company will issue a “freight collect” Bill of Landing.

202. What do you mean by Shipping Bill?

Ans. The shipping bill is the main documents required by the customs authority for allowing shipment. It contains description of export goods and other particulars as defined in The Sea Customs Act, name of the vessel in which goods are to be shipped, Country of Destination etc.

203. What do you mean by Shipping Order?

Ans. It is a document issued by the shipping line intimating the shipper (Exporter) about the reservation of space for shipment of cargo through a particular vessel from a specified port and on a specified date.

204. What do you mean by Vehicle Ticket/Cart Ticket?

Ans. It is a gate pass for port gate .it is prepared for admittance of cargo through the port gate. It contains details of cargo for export, the shipper name, cart, lorry number, gate number, marks on package, quantity and description.

205. What is pattern engineering?

Ans. It is the engineering idea which is applied at the time of marking for reducing the consumption of fabric. In this case consumption is reduced by overlapping the patterns or reducing the patterns or dividing the patterns into two parts like cuff, side pocket of pant etc.

206. What is Style?

Ans. A style is a type of product that has one or more specific feature or characteristics that distinguish it and make it different from other product of the same type. e.g. A crew neck is one style of neck line and a turtle neck is another style.

207. What is Design?

Ans. Within a specific style there can be many variations in trimmings, texture, decoration or other details like embroidery, screen printing etc. The individual interpretation or variations of the same styles are called design. One style can be many designs.

208. What is Fashion?

Ans. Fashion means consumer acceptance, the prevailing or accepted style in dress or personal decoration established or adopted during a particular time or season.

The most widely recognize fashion authority, the late Dr. Paul-H-Nystrom (1928) define fashion is similar words as “Nothing more or less than the prevailing style at any given time”.         

209. What do you mean by D/P (Document of payment)?

Ans. Under this method, the goods are shipped and documents are sent to the importer through the banking channel. The documents are handed over to the clearing (C&F) agent for clearing the goods from the port.

210. What do you mean by D/A (Documents in Acceptance)?

Ans. Under this method of payment terms, importer takes delivery of the documents on acceptance of a claim in the form of Bill of Exchange from the bank through whom documents are sent after goods are shipped.

In this method there is risk of non-acceptance of bill and non-payment due to bankruptcy.    

211. What are the processes for fixation of export prices?

Ans. There are three processes-

1.      FOB (Free on board)

2.      C & F (Cost & Freight) (FOB  cost+ Freight = C & F ) and

3.      CIF (Cost, insurance & freight) (C&F cost + Insurance = CIF)

  212. What is consumption?

Ans. In the garments trade, consumption means quantity of raw materials with a view to determine the price of a garment. In order to calculate the above quantity how much fabric, sewing thread, button, label, zipper and other accessories are required to produce a garment up to the exporting is called consumption. 

GARMENTS TERMS AND DEFINITION

Ø  Arm scye: The arm hole of sleeve in a particular garment is named as arm scye.

Ø  Allowance: Additional measurement which added with body measurement in case of garments making.

Ø  Aplique: Additional fabric added in the face side of the garments for increasing the beauty of the dress which is called aplique.

Ø  Back rise: Distance between CRUTCH TO CENTER BACK WAIST LINE.

Ø  Basting: It is the temporary sewing by hand or m/c before doing final stitching for better fitting.

Ø  Bust point: Focusing point of the chest is called bust point.

Ø  Bodice: The part of ladies dress which stay neck to waist.

Ø  Back stitch: A type of hand stitch which is use for garment sewing.

Ø  Bodkin: The m/c used for making hole on the fabric is called bodkin.

Ø  Cheese: it is cylinder shape thread package in which thread in cross wound.

Ø  Closing: It is an operation in which side seam is join in the garment or join lining with fore part.

Ø  Collar: It is the part of the garment (shirt, polo-shirt etc) which stay round the neck.

Ø  Fork/Crutch/crotch: The part in which inside leg seam of the part is join, this part is called crutch.

Ø  Cuff: It is the end point of a sleeve of a shirt laying around the wrist.

Ø  Cone: It is a triangle form of thread packages.

Ø  Clem: It is a small dart which produced by sewing but not cut the fabric.

Ø  Crease:  To give crease mark on the fabric or garments/ any kind of creasing or folding in clothes.

Ø  Double faced: The fabric which both side is same and both side can be focused, it is called double faced.

Ø  Darning/mending: When fabric hole is repaired by needle and yarn.

Ø  Dummy: This is a duplicate model of doll similar to human body construction used for garments fittings.

Ø  Ends: Wrap direction threads of fabric are called ends.

Ø   Fore part: The face side of the garments which use on the upper part of the body is called fore part.

Ø  Front rise: Distance between crutch to face side of waist band of a garment/pant is called front rise.

Ø  Fusing: The method by which fusible interlining is joining with the garments is called fusing.

Ø  Gusset: To increase the strength or fitting or shape of garments, some extra fabrics are used which is called gusset.

Ø  Neatening: The process of sewing in cutting edge of the fabric so that the slack yarn can not be opened.

Ø  SMV: Standard minutes value.

Ø  TST: Total standard time.

Ø  CNT/NT: Computing normal time/Normal time.

Ø  SAM: Sum of all minutes.

Ø  CST: Computing standard time.

Ø  CPM: Cost price per minute.

Ø  CMT: Cost of making with trimmings/Cutting, making and Trimmings cost/Cost of making time.

Ø  N.S.A: No sewing allowance.

Ø  Off Pressing: Final pressing after sewing the garments.

Ø  Off Grain: When weft yarn is not maintaining 90° with selvedge.

Ø  Cross Pocket; Side pocket of trouser.

Ø  Sewing Out: When stitching is done by keeping sewing allowance inside.

Ø  Sewing Round: When lining is attached with shell at the edge of all parts of a garments.

Ø  Seam Busting; When pressing is done on seam for placing fabric both side equally.

Ø  Shirring: When elastic thread is used as looper thread for making gathering stitch.

Ø  Straight Line System: Line system production.

Ø  Thread Marking: Temporary stitching for testing fitting of a garments.

Ø  Templet: It is plastic or metal or hand paper, which is used for making pattern or use as guide for fabric cutting.

Ø    Crocking; Colour is fading after rubbing from dry or wet cloth.

Ø  Double Faceed: Symmetric fabric, both side same.

Ø  Drape; The shape of fabric, after hanging.

Ø  Donkey: Pressing board, is used for pressing.

Ø  Drop Loop; When waist band loop is placed 1-2 cm below of top waist line.

Ø  Ease or Loose Dress: Keeping excess fabric for comfort using.

Ø  Epaulet: Strap on shoulder for a shirt or jacket.

Ø  Faced Cloth: When face side of fabric is different from other side. e.g. Flannel fabric.

Ø  Fall: Collar fall, back width of collar after folding.

Ø  Fofk; Crutch of trouser.

Ø  Fullness; Extra fabric is used for getting shape of a part of a dress. e.g. Sleeve head.

Ø  Forearm Line: A line from middle of “front arm hole” to the end of sleeve at thumb.

Ø  Fagot Stitch; Zigzag stitch by maintaining gap between two fabrics.

Ø  Grinning; Sewing by loose thread tensions, as a result gap in sewing line.

Ø  Grown-on-Facing: Plain front facing (Facing made by fabric folding inside).

Ø  Godet: When interlining is used under embroidery.

Ø  Hanger Appeal: The shape of garments when hang on Hanger.

Ø  Interfacing: When interlining is used inside facing.

Ø  Inset: When extra fabric is used for better fitting.

Ø  Jigger: Button, which is attach inside of the garments. e.g. shank button of double brast coat.  

Ø  Laying-up: Process of fabric laying.

Ø  Leaf Edge; The edge of collar which is hanging after folding.

Ø  Linking: In sweater Factory, when two fabrics are joined by linking machine.

Ø  Lashing: When interlining is attached with facing by using Blind stitch machine.

Ø  Make through (Sample man): Who attach all parts of a garments.

Ø  Making-up; It is process to make garments from fabric.

Ø  Marking-in: Marking, when pencil is moved around the patterns.         

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